Saturday, August 04, 2007

Burma 14th Most Failed State: What it Means and How It is Calculated.

Poster -- of Burmese Democracy Leader and Nobel Peace Laureate, Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, United States Campaign for Burma -- July 2006

Last year (2006) my country of origin, Burma, was number 18 on the list of Most (Worst) Failed States in the world. This year it is number 14th. Can the military junta that rules it so tightly, do nothing but make it “advance” on indicators that show how awful it is?
The topmost block of indicators in a list totaling 177 countries blares at you from a bright red alert background color. Next comes orange and then, lowest on the scale, which is the best in this case, a cool color – green.
So how does the Fund for Peace measure all this, and what does it take account of? So which are the two worst places, with the most failed states? Your guess is absolutely right and they are – Sudan and Iraq. Daily media images confirm this. But wait a minute, how do we exactly measure Sudan and Iraq against each other? It’s done by using social, economic and political indicators, and in this case it is not a statistical sleight of hand. The indicators are probably based on sample surveys or interviews.
We could ask a refugee from Sudan and one from Iraq – which of your plights was the worst, do you think? Starving and the militia in Sudan, sectarian violence and bombs going off all the time in Iraq? But we have to aggregate the impressions and rank them in order.
Here are some of the 12 indicators used to rank 177 countries: Among the social indicators –
I-1 Mounting demographic pressures – this means limited physical resources, including food, transportation etc to look after an increasing population. And/or not enough resources for people.
I-2 Massive movement of Refugees and IDPs (Internally Displaced People) -- Ah! Burma for certain has this, as do the Sudan and Iraq.
I-3 A legacy of vengeance, especially between groups.
I-4 Chronic and sustained human flight. This is very important as an indicator. It means it is not only chronic, that is, very bad and going on all the time, but also kept going by continued bad conditions, severe oppression and so on. In the Burmese case, since the SPDC now wages war on the minorities year round, no longer “resting” for the rainy season, and other oppressions have continued, the number of refugees and IDPs is increasing daily.
Famous Nobel Prize Winning economist Milton Friedman, who in the 70s, with his wife Rose, wrote the popular TV series and book Free to Choose, stated that this “voting with one’s feet” was very significant. As in Hungary after the clampdown on the revolution of 1956, people cannot stand it any more and walk out to a freer place. Burmese refugees and exiles are now everywhere, most of them in countries such as Thailand, India, China and Bangladesh, which share borders with Burma. The IDPs, estimated at one million in a country of 50m, are displaced by the SPDC’s relocation campaigns, rural exactions, forced portering etc and are tramping around within the country. Among them are child soldiers and/or orphans.
Among the economic indicators used to calculate the Failed State Index are:
I-5 Uneven economic development along group lines.
There is great economic disparity between the rich and the poor in Burma. The rich are either the army or the “pariah capitalists” or new rich, who have worked out some kind of détente with the Burmese junta.

I –6. Sharp and severe economic decline.
Among the political factors:
I-7 Criminalization and/or delegitimization of the State.
I-9 Arbitrary application of rule of law and widespread violation of Human Rights.
Sadly for Burmese, these are self-explanatory.
How do some of Burma’s neighbors in S.E. Asia do in these rankings? The second worst failed states are in “orange alert status.” They include, and we would expect this, Laos and Cambodia, but also Thailand and Vietnam, and among former communist or still communist states, Russia and Cuba.
In a failed state such as Burma, the state is not looking after its citizens as it should be, but is looking after itself.
I-10 Security apparatus or apparat is functioning as a state within a state.

Which are the world’s best states? Which country is it best to be a citizen of?
A family friend of mine, let’s call her Sann Sann, was first in Norway before her refugee journey brought her to the Unites States. Her husband says, she always talks about, “Norway, Norway.” In this case she is correct. Norway, number 177 in this table, has the least failed state, that is, the best government. Overall, the 3 Scandinavian countries are the 3 best countries to be a citizen of:
#177 Norway
#176 Finland


#175 Sweden.
(#174 is Ireland, #173 is Switzerland, where allegedly, even the former dictator of Burma, the late Gen. Ne Win, kept his Swiss bank account).
It is probably not an accident that The Democratic Voice of Burma (Radio) is based in Oslo, Norway.
Nor that Carl Sandburg’s famous poem of 1942, “The Man with the Broken Fingers” is about a Norwegian freedom fighter who had not only all his fingers but his entire body broken and died as a result of torture during the Nazi Occupation.
The Gestapo wit and craft had an aim.
They wanted it known in Norway the Gestapo can be terrible.
They wanted a wide whispering of fear.
Of how the Nazis handle those who won’t talk or tell names.
“We give you one more chance to co-operate.”
Yet he had no names for them.
His locked tongue, his Norwegian will pitted against Nazi will,
His pride and faith in a free man’s way.
His welcoming death rather than do what they wanted ---

I translated this poem into Burmese and broadcast it on my program, Poems of Those who Love Their Country, in 1997.
The countries with the best governments, saving the best for last, are thus Switzerland, Ireland, Sweden, Finland and Norway. Their citizens are all well known for their independent mindedness.

For the actual tables, please see http://www.fundforpeace.org/web/index
Also, http://www.foreignpolicy.com/

Kyi May Kaung was born in Burma, and has 4 degrees, including a Masters and a Doctorate from the University of Pennsylvania. Her doctoral dissertation is about the terrible affects of centralization in Burma and other countries. She was a Sr. Research Analyst at Radio Free Asia and The Burma Fund from 1996-2004. She lived in Burma till the early 1980s.

Friday, August 03, 2007

Author Meena Nayak will read from her book Endless Rain

At my Dr. Kaung's Salon, at Space 7-10, Kefa Cafe, 963 Bonifant St., Kefa Cafe, Silver Spring, MD

August 24th, Friday, 6.30 PM to 8.30 PM

Do come! Or watch this blog for updates and reports.

Meena A. Nayak will read from her new novel, (Penguin), which takes place in Kashmir, India."Endless Rain" is Meena Nayak's fourth book. She will talk about how she came to write about Kashmir, and her research trips there. Meena teaches Creative Writing and Mythology at Northern Virginia Community College.
Come and find out more about Kashmir -- a place of political turmoil as well as unrivalled beauty, so often featured in world-class writing out of India, especially in the novels of Salman Rushdie. What happens when a writer is compelled to write about a place but knows the research for it could become life threatening?

From Dr Hamid Akbari -- Events in Chicago to commemorate Burma's 8-8-88 Anniversary

Azar and Danny and I would like to invite you to join us and others to hear the respected and tireless activist, journalist and author, Maura Stephenes, US spokesperson for the International Campaign for Freedom for Aung San Suu Kyi and Burma and a humanitarian campaigner and writer on Iraq since 2003, for any or all of the following events:


On Friday, August 10 at 7:00 p.m., Maura will speak on Burma and Aung San Suu Kyi's http://www.dassk.com/ struggle for democracy and freedom in Burma on the 19th annivesary of August 8, 1988, the notorious day that witnessed the massive killings and widespread violent suppresion of the peaceful democracy activists in Burma by the ruling military junta (SLORC).
The No Exit Cafe, 7:00 p.m. http://www.heartlandcafe.com/nx_index.htm6970 North GlenwoodChicago, IL, 60626 USAPhone: (773) 743-3355

On Saturday, August 11 at 8:00 p.m., please join us for a dinner with Maura at Cafe Suron. We will also hear about Maura's recent work on Iraq and she will also answer any questions about her work on Iraq and Burma. For Maura's latest work on Iraq, please see http://www.alternet.org/waroniraq/57902/
Cafe Suron, 1146 W Pratt, Chicago, IL 60626 - Telephone 773-465-6500
http://www.cafesuron.com/index.htm
(Please let either Danny or I know if you're coming so that we plan for the seating. There will be a fixed price for each person attending).

On Sunday, August 12 at 2:30 p.m., Azar is hosting a gathering at our home in honor of Maura in order to organize a Greater Chicago Women's Group for Freedom of Aung San Suu Kyi and Democracy in Burma. Please let Azar and I at (hamidakbari@comcast.net) know if you would be interested in attending this event and we will send you more information about it.
We hope you would not miss the opportunity to meet with Maura and be inspired by her commitment to peace and justice in Burma and Iraq. Please spread the word about these events to your interested friends and colleagues and we hope to see many of you at one or more of these events.
Azar Khounani, kidsacdemy@sbcglobal.net
Danny Postel, dannypostel@gmail.com
Hamid Akbari, hamidakbari@comcast.net

Basket Makers from Save the Girls (Uganda)


Photo Elaine Kessler

Interview of Elaine Kessler, Co-Founder of Save the Girls (of Uganda)

Elaine Kessler, thanks for agreeing to be interviewed about your organization, Educate the Girls, and yourself.
Here are some questions:
1. When did you and Nancy set up Educate the Girls, and why?
We incorporated in 2002 and got our exempt status from the Internal Revenue Service in 2004. But we began informally several years before that. When Nancy’s husband John Veldhuis was working in Uganda she went to visit and met a group of women in the village who had organized with the purpose of earning money to send their daughters to school. They made and sold baskets to do this, and Nancy began buying baskets there, selling them here to family and friends at her church, and telling about girls who were overlooked as far as education was concerned. Several people, including myself, volunteered to sponsor a girl’s education. I had been volunteering with Women for Women International for a number of years, and saw it almost from its beginning grow into a major nonprofit organization. So I suggested we could do something much larger than sell a few baskets and sponsor a couple of girls.
2. How did you and Nancy meet?
We were both divorced when we met when it was good to find a single friend to do things with.
3. How many women have you helped educate so far, in how many countries?
We currently work only in Uganda. We would like to expand, but we want to get our program firmly in place and successful before we expand.
We have helped about 40 girls and young women so far.
4. Why is it “better” or more urgent or more important to educate girls or women?
It is more urgent to educate girls because they are more likely to be last in line for an education when money is an issue, as it is in this poor area. Educating girls has many benefits, not only for the girls, but for their future families and communities as well. Educated girls are more likely to seek health care and less likely to marry too early, before their bodies are ready to bear children. They will be more likely to have prenatal care and their children will probably receive health care. Their children will also go to school. And money that an educated woman earns will go towards their family’s welfare, rather than be spent in cafes, according to some of the women I have met. They will also have AIDS education.
5. What sort of education do you provide, who provides it?
We provide funding for primary and secondary school education. The students choose their schools, which are usually Anglican, Catholic, or Muslim.
6. Can you tell me a few instances where education has saved or changed a woman’s life.
When the woman’s group we work with, in the village of Kononi, learned of a 14-year-old girl from a poverty-stricken girl who was “sold” into marriage with an older man, the women raised the money to “buy” her back and put her in school.
7. Specifically about Uganda, where you are going, it has had such a bad reputation as the country of dictator Idi Amin. As a foreign owned and operated non-governmental organization working in Uganda, how much red tape do you have to deal with? Was it difficult to get in and is it difficult to send money, to operate on a daily basis? Is there much interference from central government or regional authorities?
I have not had to deal with red tape in Uganda; we have a representative who handles everything there. I have not heard of any problems. The government is pro-education, and very much for girls being educated. We wire money from our bank here to a bank in Uganda. In the U.S. our organization is run by volunteers, but our Uganda representative is not a volunteer. The money we receive goes from our organization to Uganda and is distributed to the women to pay the girls’ school fees. It does not go through any third party.
8. What sort of culture towards women, and women working outside the home, do you think Uganda has?
Women’s status is not on the same level as women here. The women’s group we work with has a man at the head, because it is felt officials will more readily deal with him. There is not the same force to require men to support their children if their marriage is not intact, or if they take another wife—polygamy is legal—and begin another family.
9. Are they rural or urban based women, or which ethnicity or tribe?
They are rural women, often without the education they seek for their daughters. I have not heard people speak of tribes, so I don’t know if that is a great issue for them.
10. Which particular scholarship, for which particular recipient, are you most proud of?
I am most proud of Annet, a girl I helped sponsor in secondary school. She was told by her local school that she should find a more challenging school, and she did—and continued to find even more challenging schools. She wanted a government scholarship to Makere University, but when her time came the government had cut back on the number of scholarships it gave. She went to see the king of Buganda to make her case and she got her scholarship.
11. Do you provide subjects such as basic computer use, accounting etc.
I don’t think it is part of the secondary school curriculum, but I know computer courses are available during school breaks.
12. As an artist myself, I am particularly interested in the basket makers.
What are the baskets made of? How long does it take to make a basket the diameter of a dinner plate?
The baskets are made of sisal, and dyed with natural dyes. It probably takes a day or more, although it probably depends on making the dye, obtaining the sisal, etc.
13. What would you say is the “tipping point” in terms of US $, that is needed for a girl to get a High School diploma?
School fees are about $200 a year for primary school, and around $450 for secondary school, which is often a boarding school, so the girl will need bedding, all toiletries, etc. in addition to school supplies.
14. For the benefit of overseas based readers, can you explain briefly what 501 (C 3) status in the USA means?
The 501(c)(3) status is the section of our tax code that allows contributions to charities to be deducted from income tax.
Thank you, Elaine.

Burmese Contemporary Artists: Paint it the Way You See It.

Since 1988, while the clampdown on political activity inside Burma has continued and even ratcheted upwards, businessmen and visual artists have been allowed some degree of freedom, so long as they stay within unspoken boundaries, that is, they don’t do politics. As the even slight loosening of direct controls has produced a good deal of economic activity, albeit among families who have worked out deals with the power holders, in the visual and molded arts (paintings and sculpture) also, post-1988 has seen a blossoming of Burmese art. Some artists have even achieved commercial and personal breakthroughs in their art, perhaps setting up some degree of envy among exile artists such as myself, who now have to compete in the outside world.
In the early 90s, when I was still a graduate student in Philadelphia, I met two Burmese artists, Sonny Nyein and Min Wae Aung, who were on a USAID tour. In the decade since then, Min Wae Aung has become a highly successful Burmese artist, maybe the most successful Burmese artist, with his pictures of back-lit monks, viewed just so from a strange but engaging angle of 35 degrees looking downwards. He has also done similarly well with the intriguing back views of his friends; what might be called reverse portraits. The only danger artistically for Min Wae Aung is that he may settle for churning out copies where he “imitates himself.” He has already spawned too many imitators inside Burma.
I was also happy to see Sonny Nyein, sculptor, has been similarly successful with his sculptures exhibited in Chiangmai, Thailand. Burmese artists have so much to contend with, as do artists everywhere. They deserve a break.
For the last couple of years, with trips to Thailand, I have been fortunate to see more Burmese contemporary art. And some of the work is astounding.
The ones I like best are Zaw Win Pe, painting his large fauve (“wild beast”) style landscapes of, I was told, the Shan States. The colors are gorgeous and the strokes bold, some laid on the large canvases with a large palette knife. Zaw Win Pe told the owner of Suvannabhumi Gallery in Chiangmai that he had always wished to paint this way (boldly), and now (with the availability of materials) he was able to do so.
I am not quite sure of the economics of painting in Burma these days, but when I was there, during the socialist BSPP period (before 1988), art supplies such as canvas, primer, brushes and paint were extremely scarce. This and the fact that rewards such as prizes (though I have only heard of state literary prizes, not prizes for fine art,) are set by the military government, produced a stasis in art. A concern is the lack of aesthetic taste on the part of the generals, which can only be said to be kitsch.
Now after 1988, I have the impression that for a price, art materials can be bought or imported, artists can travel outside the country to some extent, and may be allowed to earn foreign exchange, which must be kept, apparently, in a government bank.
In any case, I am happy artists can do what they are best suited to do – make art.
Another painter whose abstracts have a purity and finesse about them is Bogie (I hope I am spelling his name correctly) which I am told, is pronounced “Bo Kyi.” In any case, the abstracts, on a creamy textured ground on canvas, are of “falling blocks” that have a refined sense of minimalism. It is like very calming music.
At a recent exhibition of Burmese paintings at PlanB Gallery in Washington, DC., (May 16-June 17, 2007), I looked for but did not see work by Min Wae Aung or Bogie.
However, I was happy to see a big fauve landscape by Zaw Win Pe, and a square 46 x 46” canvas of the Sunday Corner at the Shwedagone by Kyee Myint Saw, the night scene depicted in an erie blue light. The architectural details, including the half concealed face of the mythical Manok Thiha, Hpin Hna Khwa (Monok Thiha – or “lion with two rear ends”) are painted in boldly with a baroque touch and a lot of gold. I particularly like the artificial light from above falling on the folds of the white shirts of the men praying in the foreground; the pale aqua light, brushed in with horizontal brushstrokes, in the shrine alcove to the right.
There is a sense of stillness and calm with a vague sense of unease or impending doom, somewhere beyond the bold square format.
The other paintings in this show were less impressive, though all innovative in their own ways. Nan Nan, the only woman in the exhibition, showed big canvases featuring an over all design with Buddhist themes.
I liked the least, the back lit pictures of Burmese women fixing their longyis, which to me appeared unnecessarily coy and teasing, a half measure for not being able to paint nudes.
These are of course my personal reactions. Art is a very subjective thing and you either love something or hate it. If it elicits a lukewarm response, then it is hardly worthwhile to paint.
I am glad Burmese artists for the most part, are able to paint whatever they want and are starting to be recognized internationally. I wish for them all, the grand art tour to see the art of their international contemporaries.

Kyi May Kaung (Ph.D.) has had an abiding love of the arts and has painted since childhood. Since 2000, she has shown professionally in the Greater Washington DC area. Her exhibition of abstract expressionist paintings will be on display at Suvannabhumi Gallery in Chiangmai, Thailand, July 14 to 20th, 2007.

Former Deputy PM of Malaysia Anwar Ibrihim spoke out for Daw Suu and Burma

Anwar Ibrihim at the Cosmos Club --
Photo copyright Kyi May Kaung
Iron gate at Cosmos Club, Washington DC.

Photo copyright Kyi May Kaung.



At an Asian Voices Seminar at the select Cosmos Club in Washington DC, on June 8th, 2007, sponsored by the Sasakawa Peace Foundation, USA, former Deputy PM of Malaysia Anwar Ibrihim spoke out strongly for democracy and for Burma and imprisoned democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi.
Mr. Ibrihim was recently Distinguished Visiting Professor in the School of Foreign Service at Georgetown University, and Visiting Fellow, St. Anthony’s College, Oxford University. Previously, he was Distinguished Visiting Fellow at SAIS (School of Advanced International Studies) in Washington DC.
He began his notable political career in Malaysia in 1982 when he was elected to Malaysia’s Parliament and subsequently was Minister of Youth, Minister of Education, Minister of Finance and Deputy P.M. He founded the Youth Movement of Malaysia in 1971 and was its president for 10 years. His wife, Dr. Wan Azizah, heads the Parti Keadilan Rakyat Party.
In 1998, Newsweek International named Mr. Ibrihim “Asian of the Year.” In 1998, he was imprisoned by Mahathir Mohammad’s government on trumped up charges which included sodomy. A Wikipedia article on-line gives details of his case. The prosecution was said to have alleged that the alleged sodomy took place in a building that did not exist at the time, and the judge Augustine Paul who first wrote the judgement was promoted after doing so. Wikipedia (p. 8 of 16) states that “The persecution . . . of Anwar has widely been considered to have homophobic overtones, although Anwar himself is married and has several children and no evidence indicates that he is gay.”
“In a speech during the proceedings against him, Anwar explained what he believed to be the primary motive behind his persecution. He told the court, ‘I objected to the use of massive public funds to rescue the failed businesses of his (Mahathir’s) children and cronies.
“Both Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch expressed some doubts about the fairness of the trials. A.I. subsequently designated Anwar as a prisoner of conscience.”

This was during the Asian financial crisis of 1997, for the countries which till then had been known as the Asian Tigers, but were now wounded and bandaged tigers, as depicted in a cartoon at the time. Anwar Ibrihim as Finance Minister supported the IMF plan for recovery which involved economic restructuring and opening up the economy to greater foreign investment and competition. Ibrihim instituted an austerity program that cut government spending, which affected some of Mahathir’s mega projects.
In 2004, an appeals court reversed the conviction and he was released.
In the gilt and mirrored upstairs room of the Cosmos Club, with its heavily baroque walls and ceilings, Mr. Ibrihim’s presentation after a buffet lunch deplored the retrogressions from democracy that he was seeing in S.E. Asia. The other 2 speakers, Jose Luis Gascon of the Philippines, and a political scientist from Thailand who requested anonymity, both seconded Mr. Ibrihim’s impressions that democracy is not doing well in S.E. Asia right now. The session was moderated by Catharin Dalpino, Visiting Associate Professor at the Edmund Walsh School of Foreign Service at Georgetown University. Prof. Dalpino teaches S.E. Asian politics, security and international relations.
My question to Mr. Anwar Ibrihim, which I did not get to ask (because it was answered anyway) was – “If democracy is doing so badly in the other countries of S.E. Asia, what about Burma?”
John Brandon of the Asia Foundation also asked Mr. Ibrihim, “You spoke of the failure of ASEAN to take effective measures on Burma. What are those?”
Mr. Ibrihim replied, “Why don’t we at ASEAN condemn the (Burmese) junta for mistreating Aung San Suu Kyi? We need to take a strong position, and not allow a dictatorship to treat its own people as slaves.” He said that all the foreign investors doing business in Burma were “all cronies (of the Burmese junta) from the ASEAN countries.” He also added that in Burma, “tens of thousands of people are being treated as slaves, and there is mass abuse of human rights.”
He then went on to say that in S.E. Asia, “a soft democracy” with a consistent, coherent voice may be more important. In the case of Burma, he said, it is a failure of the governments in ASEAN, stuck as they are in the obsolete notion of constructive engagement.
Then, much to the amusement of the fifty or so seminar attendees, he added, “All that’s taking place (in Burma) is construction by the military government, there is no constructive engagement.” He said in the case of Burma there is no simple solution. It took the EU and the USA to compel ASEAN to use more courage. Mr. Ibrihim re-iterated that a new approach was needed “so that the Mahathirs and Lee Kuan Yews of this world will not say ‘democracy is bad for S.E. Asia.’”
Mr. Ibrihim said, “You can write anything I said,” when I asked him for permission to quote his remarks. He smiled broadly when I mentioned that our mutual mentor, Dr. Josef Silverstein, Professor Emeritus Rutgers University and recognized “Dean” of Burma Studies, often mentioned his name.
Mr. Anwar Ibrihim currently resides in Malaysia where he serves as advisor to the People’s Justice Party and is a prominent leader in the opposition.
See also an op-ed written by Mr. Ibrihim to the Asian Wall Street Journal.

Ibrihim, Anwar, “Destructive Engagement” Asian Wall Street Journal, June 15, 2005. Also on Burmanet.

Kyi May Kaung is a freelance writer and research analyst based in the greater Washington DC area. For the last 10 years she has regularly written commentaries on Burma and S.E. Asia.

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Excellent overview of recent Cambodian history

Strangler fig (a kind of banyan) strangling silk cotton tree strangling ancient stone temple at Ta Prohm, Angkor. Photo copyright Kyi May Kaung.

has an excellent overview of recent Cambodian history.

Especially please read Bruce Sharp's The Banyan Tree.
"Ta Prohm was the temple chosen by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme Orient to be left in its 'natural state,' as an example of how Angkor looked on its discovery in the 19th century."
Michael Freeman and Claude Jacques, Ancient Angkor, River Book Guides, 1999, p. 136.
Except that the Cambodians never forgot their own monuments, just abandoned them.
"It is frequently said that Angkor 'was discovered by the Europeans,' but this is patently nonsense and reflects a Eurocentric view. The Khmers never forgot the existence of their monuments, and even if they neglected the majority of their temples, Angkor Wat always remained occupied and a place of worship."
Ibid, p. 40.
Anyone who has been to Angkor would recognise that by their sheer scale and beauty, as well as considering how many monuments there are, the ancient temples would be hard for anyone to forget.
It is more likely extreme poverty and the always changing politics, including the Khmer Rouge years, and the American bombing which preceded it, which caused "the Cambodians to neglect their monuments."
Life and surviving has to come first. Even then, Bruce Sharp writes that of 8 m. people, in the three and a half years of the Pol Pot regime, 2 m. or one fourth of the population died.
There is nothing to indicate that previous centuries were less brutal.
Copyright Kyi May Kaung.

Chiangmai -- without the hassle of the open red taxis and tuk tuk

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiangmai

Some familiar scenes.

Panic -- since I can't find my Wat U Mong, Chiangmai photos

http://students.uww.edu/grorudam29/photos%20wat%20umong.htm

http://www.chiangmai1.com/chiang_mai/wat_u_mong.shtml

It's on Suthep Road, not far from Chiangmai University.

Some women friends including Daw May Nyane, Burmese writer and novelist took me there.

The young lady who initiated the trip said -- mistakenly -- "It's named after a Burmese exile -- U Maung" -- and that seemed to recall in my mind that I had read somewhere that Burmese timber traders before World War II in Burma's British Colonial Period had settled in Chiangmai, Thailand (then Siam) and built some wat or chedi (sedi in Burmese).

But Wat U Mong was not built so recently by a Burmese named U Maung -- even though I found the story very charming.

It's a reference to u min hlaing gaung, caves or "gu" which are a feature of Buddhist architecture in Theravada Buddhist countries such as Burma and Thailand.

Daw May Nyane told me the damp/dank caves or tunnels were very like Kyanzithha's U Min in Bagan(formerly transliterated as Pagan) where she had been but I had not.

Wat U Mong was built in the 14th century.

My friends were able to make out "red and green circles" on the faded inner walls. Outside, I saw a computer recreated (?) pattern of the red, green and gold overall pattern -- like a hand-painted wall paper, that had once decorated those sloping walls. It must have been gorgeous and even now packs a punch.

The outside bricks with their filigree of ferns and moss was no less beautiful.

Maybe I took the photographs on my visit with my other camera, the one with film in it. Maybe they were all accidentally erased.

We will see, as I like to say.

Meanwhile, this can act as a memory jogger.

I highly recommend that you visit this very calm place in its lovely forest setting.

Thank you, Friends, for taking me there.

K.M.Kaung

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

AngkorArcheological Park -- Main Park Area

http://www.canbypublications.com/maps/SR-AngkorParkMain.htm

This map shows the "small tour route" (petit circuit) as well as the "grand tour route" (grand circuit.)

Public domain image of Angkor Wat replica -- from Wikipedia


The maker of this replica seems to have assumed, anomalously, that the corner towers were in the Banteay Srei style -- visually, as you can see, it does not at all "fit" the prangs of the main quincux of towers.

From the remaining shape and style of the 3 towers at the first entryway, immediately after the moat and before the causeway, I am inclined to think that the corner towers would have echoed the same prang shape as the towers in the central shrine.

Besides, Bateay Srei (consecrated 967 AD) - is much earlier than Angkor Wat (early 12th century) and is recognised as a different style by most art scholars and historians.

Just speaking visually as a practicing artist, I think the anonymous architect/designer of Angkor Wat was too fine an artist to make a visual error as we see in this rather jumbled (Thai) replica.

See Thierry Diwo, Angkor Wat Forever, for an aerial view of Angkor Wat. You will see what I am talking about.

K. M. Kaung

P.S. -- The photographer has granted permission for anyone to use this image, copy or modify it.

Monday, July 30, 2007

Pics from my Yo! art show opening in Chiangmai, July 14, 2007

"She did not recognise herself, and she's not the first!" Photo and painting copyright Kyi M. Kaung.
"Jackson Pollock" art demo -- photo copyright K.M. Kaung.

" Enjoy the show!" Photo K.M. Kaung


Primary P.R. Person M.M.S. and Husband S.S. Photo K.M. Kaung



"Get together." Photo and paintings copyright K.M. Kaung




"M.C. briefing" photo K.M. Kaung.





"Flowers for the 3-women show" photo K.M. Kaung.






"Are you taking them in a tuk tuk?" Photo and paintings copyright K.M.Kaung







Pig Picture from Siem Reap, Cambodia

Pigs to market, Siem Reap, Cambodia. Photo copyright Kyi May Kaung.

Thanks to my guide S.B. (for snapping the picture with my camera) and my driver -- Next time I will do a people tour, a chronological tour or a "royal roads" tour.

The pigs are being transported by motor bike along road to Western Baray (pronounced "bar- I" as in "The King and I.")

The road runs parallel to an old canal built by the Angkor kings which is still in use. Earlier we saw pink baby pigs in small cages.

Copyright Kyi May Kaung

Irrawaddy has re-published my 2001 article on Burma and Sanctions

http://www.irrawaddymedia.com/article.php?art_id=251

I had another near miss with Ma Thanegi, well known junta apologist, at the art opening for 35 Myanmar artists at Chiangmai Art Museum, Chiangmai, Thailand on 13th July.

I went there to see the beautiful art and the artists. But Ma Thanegi seems to have thought this a good occasion to pick a fight with me.

I managed to walk away and see the art.

I felt if she had an issue with the 2001 article, she should have written a repartee to The Irrawaddy between then and now, almost 7 years.

Last year I saw her from a distance at the Burma Studies Seminar in Singapore. I smiled at her, but she avoided me.

Chiangmai gossip is that she is under pressure herself from the junta, and also that she is working on "sending the Palaung home."

If so, Burma watchers need to pay attention.

I have no way of checking these rumors.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

How wonderful to be back in the USA again

After almost a month on the road, it is truly wonderful to be back in the USA again.

I can blog again as my blog is in English now and not in Thai.

Angkor in Cambodia was Amazing.

I discovered a ground orchid at dawn at Angkor Wat.

It looked like stars or blossoms fallen from a tree.

I brought back 3 pressed blooms, but somehow forgot to take pictures of them -- but -- amazing again, I found untitled photographs of the same orchid in a guide book on Chiangmai.

I will find out what is the name of "my orchid" by writing to the biodiversity center listed there.

How wonderful and awful is globalisation.

Copyright Kyi May Kaung

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Particulars of my Upcoming Art Show in Thailand

"Chiangmai Woman" Copyright Kyi May Kaung

Suvannabhumi Gallery, Chiangmai will present Burmese exile artist Kyi May Kaung’s Yo Franz! & Yo Jackson! Art Show. Her splash-drip-pour paintings, collages, "collaints" and iconic portraits of imagined nats or spirits will be on display.

Kaung’s work has been compared to that of Franz Kline and Jackson Pollock (by City Paper Art Critic Louis Jacobson in 2001) and in this
path-breaking show, a diversity of her works will be presented.

14th - 20th July 2007

Opening Night Reception: 14th July 2007 (Saturday)
Time: 6.00 - 8.00 pm
Art Demo & Poetry Reading

Suvannabhumi Gallery
9/10 Soi Taewarit, T. Chang Phuek, Chiang Mai 50300

Poster for my Upcoming Art Show in Thailand.


THANK YOU, MMS, and Suvannabhumi Gallery.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Refugee Parrots in Singapore and the Netherlands

Just like us!

They become naturalized as they are trafficked so intensively -- escapees link up with each other. Though from different parts of the world, they "recognize each other as parrots."

Do the parallels ring a loud bell in your head, especially if you are a refugee, or an African American descended from slaves?

See pictures on this site of scarlet macaw flying over Dutch rooftops and a sulfur crested cockatoo in a tree in Singapore.

The report concludes so far these immigrants have survived by flocking with other birds, not just other parrots, and have not had any adverse affect other than waking suburbanites with their loud cries.

Bravo survivor birds!

See --

http://www.cityparrots.org/

Simon Schama on Carravagio

http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/powerofart/

I highly recommend this Power of Art Series. I may not agree with everything Schama says, and sometimes his analyses may be too pat and dramatized, but it is a great starting point to pique anyone's interest.

Also to revive interest in artists such as Picasso and Van Gogh, who are written about often.

This piece on 17th century artist Carravagio is illustrated with many paintings and dramatic recreations of episodes in his short and turbulent life.

I never knew before that one could be sued for libel for writing a poem, which is what happened to set Carravagio on his downward spiral, into murder and attempted redemptions through his amazing art.

He painted so fabulously, in a cinematic way before cinema, with wonderful lighting that seems to rake the characters in action. Carravagio shows us moments that are freeze-framed but full of movement, emotion, meaning and life.

I think I have missed the Carravagio exhibit at the National Gallery --

I would not have if I had seen this TV piece earlier.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Travels to the Edge with Art Wolfe

Beautiful program, this week about grizzly bears on Katmai Coast of Alaska.

Note the moving collage of dramatic still shots and video cam work, with music that incorporates animal and bird cries.

You get to enjoy majestic nature without enduring the cold, bug bites and
other discomforts.

http://www.kqed.org/programs/tv/program-landing.jsp?progID=16461

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Obituary -- Daw Than E- Burmese Woman for All Seasons

Five Salmon Roses for Aunty Dora -- copyright Kyi May Kaung


Photograph of Daw Than E with Daw Aung San Suu Kyi in Algiers and in her portrait by Sir Gerald Kelly c. 1930 can be found in Freedom from Fear, first edition,
as well as in this obituary at Mizzima.com
Thank you, Mizzima, for publishing this.

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Friday, June 15, 2007

Growing Old Overseas Burmese Style

Homeless in America: Photograph copyright Kyi May Kaung. All rights reserved.

Our jointly written renga (story) in Open Democracy.

Photograph: Apple peel closure and non-closure -- copyright Kyi May Kaung

http://www.opendemocracy.net/arts/renga_readers_4405.jsp

I liked the ending the best. Opening paragraph was given to us. I think story wandered badly, but ending was brilliant and funny.

Question is, if this were a novel, would anyone buy it -- read it to the end?

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Quote from Iraq Veteran Adam Kokesh - on protesting the war --

"So it was cool that it had an immediate effect, and sometimes, you know, pointing out something, when you have something to point out that’s actually relevant. You know, sometimes standing there, holding a sign can actually make a difference."

Adam Kokesh to Amy Goodman of Democracy Now

Listen/Watch/Readhttp://www.democracynow.org/article.pl?sid=07/06/12/1415232

Thursday, June 07, 2007

Yo Franz! Yo Jackson! My upcoming art show in Thailand.

"Sha! Sha!" or "Kill! Kill!" The war cry during the Boxer Rebellion in China. Acrylic on paper, 12x18", copyright Kyi May Kaung.


Kyi May Kaung: Yo Franz and Yo Jackson – at Suvunnabhumi Gallery, Chiangmai, Thailand. July 14 to July 20th, 2007. Opening reception, July 14.


Artist’s Statement:
At the opening of my first show Flux at the Foundry Gallery on Dupont Circle in Washington, DC in March of 2001, art critic Louis Jacobson of the City Paper, compared my art to that of abstract expressionists Franz Kline and Jackson Pollock. Unlike the route taken by most artists, I started with abstract art. Only recently, since 2005, have I started to paint with an empirical referent – anonymous portraits and figures.
I continue to paint in different styles and make collages and other constructions. This show represents work made since 2001. Former Foundry Gallery manager (now head at Montpelier Arts Center), Ruth Harwood, has compared my work to that of artist Xu Bing, who writes a “Chinese” script, which is really English. Silk artist Beatrix Slotkoff said my art –“always has a scent of the East.” I feel it is not for me as the artist to define or interpret my work. I just make it.


Artist’s Bio:
Born in Burma during the Japanese Occupation of World War II, Kyi May Kaung has painted since childhood. As a teenager, she was instructed in some art techniques, at home by famous Burmese artists U Ngwe Gaing and U San Win. She developed the habit of looking at art from her father, the well-known educator, U Kaung. However, with formal training in economics and an Ivy League doctorate in political economy from the University of Pennsylvania, it was only in 2001 that she grew “temporarily tired of words” and started painting intensively.
Her one woman shows since then are Blotches from Burma, October 2005, and Mostly Burmese Mugs, March 2007, at Space 7-10, an alternate art space in Silver Spring, MD. She has had several group shows, including one with other refugee artists at Gateway Heliport Gallery, also in Silver Spring, in the Fall of 2006.

This show features her abstracts as well as her collages, small oils and acrylics on canvas. The artist wishes to thank all her friends who have helped her on her arts journey. Dr. Kaung also writes poetry, fiction and non-fiction and has won several awards.

Tuesday, June 05, 2007

Demonstration aftermath -- from IVAW -- posted with permission

Friends,Here is another short video from Iraq Veterans Against the War,specifically Marine Adam Kokesh who is being punished forparticipating in the street theatre demonstration Operation FirstCasualty (documented in the video I sent a day or so ago). This pressconference took place Friday 1 June at Union Station in Washington DC.Support the troops; listen to them.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ApVMr4XcGkwww.ivaw.org
LLaura CostasMilitary Families Speak Out,
Veterans for Peace, chapter 16
theredbudtree@earthlink.net
301-650-2326

Saturday, June 02, 2007

Iraq Veterans Against the War -- demonstration in NY

http://youtube.com/watch?v=BabrfOC0cbM

My sometimes 3D mind.

To be cast later in steel -- copyright Kyi May Kaung
Found object sculpture copyright Kyi May Kaung.



Watching sculptor Richard Serra install his massive curved rusty iron sculpture at MOMA has started me off on my sculpture daydream again. To be a real sculptor one needs a 3D mind. Mine is mostly 2 D. And one needs proper arts technique training, probably in the form of a Masters in Fine Arts; the ability to work with “masculine” materials such as stone, steel and iron, fire, glass.
There are sculptors – for instance Andy Goldsworthy, who makes sculpture out of ephemeral found materials such as sand, flung dust, water, icicles welded together with his own urine, leaves, flower petals, feathers etc.
Don’t wrinkle your noses at me, you stuck up Victorian mamas! Goldsworthy’s works are beautiful, made once, photographed and then left to decay. They are like the Tibetan monks’ sand mandalas, made of colored sand and yak butter, then not kept but swept up and dismantled, the sand put back into the sea.
This kind of art is the best. It’s not kept to cater to the artist’s vanity. It’s very Buddhist. After all Anatta, Negation of Self, is a basic Buddhist concept.
Some of Goldsworthy’s art is like ikebana, in a natural setting. Carefully graded autumn leaves sewn together with thorns wind their way down a stream and over rocks, subtly shaded from green to yellow to gold and red. Nothing could be environmentally friendlier.
I make folded paper which I hope one day to have cast big scale in steel. I save bones from dinners in restaurants and shells from the seaside.
It’s healthy to dream and flip one’s brain from 2D to 3 D.
Peace.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Burma -- Nats or nuts planting nuts.

Painting "Our Lady of Scorpions" copyright Kyi May Kaung

"What the hell is a kyet soo pin -- kyet soo plant?" all the Conference attendees wanted to know at a closed door conference on Burma in Bangkok last July.

Someone told us it is "physic nut."

Now it seems that the junta in Burma is making people plant physic nut, even on their balconies in town.

This is somewhat reminiscent of Mao's backyard steel furnaces -- for which Chinese had to contribute their cooking pots and pans and farm tools in China's Great Leap Forward, which predictably, fell on its face.

It wasn't till China started using market reforms in 1978 under Deng Xiao Ping that it started to achieve the 10% per annum growth that has made it now into one of the world's leading producers and exporters of industrial goods.

Now Burma is using a policy like Mao's "to get rid of sparrows" in a nation wide campaign.

Read more on:


Physic nut looks like a hibiscus plant, without the attractive flowers.

Nats in Burma are the 37 spirits of the pre-Buddhist pantheon, most of whom are "green dead" and died a violent death. Some are based on historical figures such as the Yun Bayin (Siamese King) Mae Ku of Chiangmai, taken to Burma as a prisoner of war.

The junta should not be so scared of Burmese democracy leader Daw Aung San Suu Kyi. After all, she is worshiped like a saint, (or a nat?) and is already a legend in her lifetime.

A country covered with kyet soo plants will hardly hide her story.

Copyright Kyi May Kaung


Friday, May 25, 2007

Poet Martin Espada interviewed by poet E. Ethelbert Miller

For my Burmese friends -- nothing can be more relevant than poets who write about oppression. See Foreign Policy in Focus.

Originally published in March, but then poetry never goes out of date. At least not good poetry.

http://www.fpif.org/fpiftxt/4125

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Wild River Review special edition on Wine, Women and Song.

Painting (left portion of) Las Vegas Black Apsaras, copyright Kyi M. Kaung. (Right portion can be seen in an earlier blog)


I just saw a blurb on NewPages.com describing Wild River Review as

"a cutting edge online literary magazine," presenting "a world of voices in conversation."

In this issue, see especially poem "Tall Naked Ships in Spike Heels" by
Jennifer Williamson and
an interview of Sci Fi writer Bill Kent.

I once took a one day workshop with Kent in Philadelphia, during which he described how

to jumpstart one's imagination and write it down fast when the Muse strikes.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Lesson in Tight Editing --

from the Anaheim Ballet. All in 2.18 mins. Already viewed by almost one and a half million people.

Is this success or is this not?

Sprawling, hemming and hawing writers please note the dramatic beginning, middle and end.

Best writing course I've ever attended. You may try the writing and editing, but please don't try the dancing at home.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUrJuSh0evE

Guest book reviewer Lila Snow on Amy Tan's Saving Fish from Drowning

Photo "Red and Black Koi" copyright Kyi M. Kaung

SAVING FISH FROM DROWNING, a book by Amy Tan.

This book was published in 2005. A group of American tourists go to China and Burma. The repressive regimes make you wonder about the wisdom of this trip. The group has two children, a 12 year old girl and a 14 year old boy.

The girl manages to smuggle a puppy across many check points. The boy is thought to be a God who can make people disappear because he does that with card tricks and that is what causes serious trouble.

The group has a secret documentary film maker and a not so secret TV veterinarian. When the group goes off on an excursion and disappears, without this veterinarian they would probably never be heard from again. He is an expert at getting attention. Fortunately he drinks and missed the boat for the excursion because of a hangover.

When the group disappears and the news is broadcast on CNN, 73% of Americans want to invade Burma and a fair number say, “Nuke ‘em.” This is scary.

Amy Tan is knowledgeable about ethnic groups in Burma and the political problems there. The book is rich in so many ways. Tan made her name with THE JOY LUCK CLUB writing about an ethnic group she knows well --- her Chinese family, but SAVING FISH is a quantum leap into a totally different body of knowledge. She writes extremely well. This is her seventh book.
Artist Lila Snow is represented by International Visions Gallery in Washington DC. She is the author of a memoir, WITH A NAME LIKE TUCHMACHER. This book review is published here with Lila Snow's permission.

Monday, May 14, 2007

In Memoriam Chao Tzang Yawngwe -- July 25, 2004

Replica of Thai (Tai or Shan) palace at 2006 Chiangmai Flower Show.
Photo copyright Kyi M. Kaung. The Yawngwe Haws at Goodliffe Road, Rangoon (accidentally burned down) and in Yawngwe were much more modest than this. Golden yellow color is royal Thai color.

This tribute was published in an abridged version in The Irrawaddy in 2004.

*



Yesterday a friend in the media sent me a short email note. “He passed away at 6.30 this morning (Sat). I have just talked to his brother Harn.”

No doubt she was preparing a radio tribute.

Eugene Chao Tzang Yawgwe, activist and scholar, was one of the sons of the late Saw Shwe Thaike, first president of democratic Burma that existed immediately after Independence from Great Britain. Eugene was an unusual human being who combined insights from experiences as different as armed struggle for the freedom of his native Shan States, to a later life of political activism and scholarship.

In addition his father the Yawngwe Saopha, (in Burmese -- Nyaungshwe Sawbwa) was the head of not the biggest but certainly the most powerful of the hereditary Shan States. My mother indeed, with her fond memories and love of the Shan States always referred to the Nyaungshwe Sawbwa as Sawbwa Gyi “the great Sawbwa.”

Together with the Mongpawn Sawbwa Sao Sam Htun, who died after the same assassination attempt in which Bogyoke Aung San, Aung San Suu Kyi’s father died, Nyaungshwe Sawbwagyi probably was among the most progressive of Shan leaders and one of those who believed most in the Panglong Agreement.

Although to this day the spirit of Panglong, with its basis in racial and ethnic equality, can be said to be alive among those of us who believe in democracy, in Burma/Myanmar (Burma slash Myanmar, as a careful non-profit administrator says; very prophetic that “slash”) it is all but badly dead, mortally wounded.

Greatness is a matter of the heart and soul, of openness of mind, of magnanimity. Eugene’s family and mine go a long way back. When the war broke out and the Japanese army invaded, my father was an education officer in the Shan States. My parents were newly married and my mother had lost her father, of a stroke at sadness from leaving a home in Moulmein to looters. Nyaungshwe Sawbwagyi gave refuge to about 40 families like my parents – in the forest near a stream – Yatsauk (Lauksauk in Burmese). As a result my mother’s memories of the war were “like a picnic in the woods with wild birds.” Most of these families were Burman.

In Rangoon, Eugene and his siblings lived in a big wooden house, a haw or palace on Goodliffe Road. Due to his younger sister Ying being my classmate at school, I visited there once -- for the day, as we used to say. Other classmates of a gossipy nature would never believe it when I said everything was very calm and the Mahadevi and the other aunties and all the children and half brothers and sisters sat down and had tea together. Ying said “We’ll go and visit Eugene,” who was in a vast bare room, reclining on the floor propped up by triangular cushions which I did not know then were Tai(Shan) in style. Eugene in those days was slim and pale and looked a bit like the male version of the princess on a pea. Ying and I at that time talked almost all the time about our wish to become writers. Little did we know that life would give us more than enough material to write about. Sometimes, I think, too much. We did not chat with Eugene long. He was about 7 years older than us, and at that age 7 years is a vast gap. Ying and I were then about 14 or so.

I cannot remember now whether I visited the Yawngwe haw while my father was still alive or after he died. In any case, life began to change for all of us; for me because of my father’s death in a car accident and for the Yawngwes because of Ne Win’s 1962 coup. We lost touch after that and it was in the early 1980s, in America, before I was again in touch with Ying.

In the early morning of March 2, 1962, Ne Win staged his coup. The night before my mother together with Kitty Ne Win had been a judge at a beauty contest in which my friend Naw Louisa Benson was a contestant. In the morning we heard news of the coup on the grapevine and for the first time, that deadpan announcer’s voice on BBS (Burma Broadcasting Service) announcing the next decree from the top.

Eugene has written about or spoken about the time of the coup: The gunshots in the night (actually early morning) during which he rolled out of bed instead of standing up, a reflex that certainly saved his life. Then crawling to his father’s room. His mother was in England, seeking medical treatment for a gynaecological condition. In 2000 I also spoke to Patricia Eliot, Sao Hearn Hkam (Nyaingshwe Mahadevi’s) biographer. “Trish” told me that the family had taken refuge behind stacks of Buddhist scriptures that the Sawbwagyi had had printed for one of his voluntary positions in a Buddhist association.

Eugene related how he came on the body of his younger brother Sao Myee, on the lawn that morning, shot by the soldiers who came to arrest their father. To this day, whenever I look at the photographs in Eugene’s autobiography, The Shan of Burma: Memoirs of a Shan Exile, or Patricia Eliot’s The White Umbrella, my heart jolts when I see pictures of Myee Myee. He was the same age as my younger sister and if he were alive now he would be 57 or so.

When I met Ying again in Princeton in 1987 at first I was reluctant to ask about her family, especially Eugene. In Burma, the military government had published the information – that is, disinformation, that Eugene had fallen in battle, as a leader of the SSA (Shan State Army.) So it was only after our 3rd or 4th meeting that I broached tentatively to Ying “And Eugene?” “What about him,” Ying said in her usual brusque manner, “He’s not dead, he’s alive and well in Canada.” I knew I should not ask the details of how they got out of Burma, as it might endanger people who had helped them.

It was only in 1997, at a Free Burma Coalition meeting in LA, that I finally met up with U Eugene again. He did not seem much changed, smiling and laughing. His younger daughter, he said, takes after her aunt.
After that I’d see U Eugene every few years or few months. I interviewed him for radio and he wrote up a message in Shan. He said he taught himself Shan as a young adult.

In 2000 when The White Umbrella was published I was all set to go and interview his mother the Mahadevi. But she was starting to loose her memory and Eugene was out of the country traveling, and then I got sick myself, and so I returned the air ticket that work had issued for me. I do regret it now.

But around 1995 I did have a chance to thank his mother in person for saving our family during the war. 1995 was the first year I went on the circuit, talking openly about my thoughts on Burma. Canadian Friends of Burma invited my mentors, Josef Silverstein and Ronald Findlay and me, to some of the first activist conferences on Burma, in Toronto and in Alberta. Since I have known Dr. Silverstein since 1984 and Dr. Findlay since the 1960s, it was good to step out onto the contentious Burmese arena with trusted mentors close at hand.

In Alberta I was standing at the podium reading my paper, when there was a soft rustling, like the sound of leaves in Autumn, riffled by a breeze. “Riffled” I just see in my dictionary, is the sound of pages being turned quickly, and it sounded like all the 40-50 people in the room were turning over their notepaper at the same time. I could not understand it; my paper must be boring them.

Then I understood as a diminutive figure with white hair walked in. People craned their necks backward and stretched them upwards and whispered, “It’s her.” I stopped reading as nobody’s attention was on me nor my paper any more.

The Mahadevi was dressed quite simply, even shoddily or carelessly and her hair was no longer the jet black I remembered. When she smiled one could see a broken tooth or two. It seemed incredible that someone so elderly and no longer in a powerful position, could still have so much charisma. At lunch she told me she had asked her son Tiger if this Kaung was the daughter of U Kaung, and on being told it was, she had come over. Time was very short and I decided I must thank her for that long ago time when she and her husband looked after my parents. Why, if my parents had died then I would never have been born. What if I never saw her again? And, in fact, I did not.

I ran after her into the ladies’ room, took her hand in both of mine and thanked her.

After the conference, in the cold of a Canadian evening, she sat stoically in the cab of Tiger’s truck. He had rushed into the seminar and forgotten to turn off his lights and the battery had run out. Tiger being a geologist, the truck was splashed liberally with mud.

Ying told me in 1997 that the military had been mad at her mother because when she was an MP for the Shan States, her mother had first started to call attention to the human rights abuses being perpetrated by the army in the Shan States.

My last memories of Eugene are also happy ones. In March 2002, the same trip indeed when we heard of the house arrest of Ne Win and daughter, at the end of a conference in Bangkok, U Eugene sat at breakfast near the swimming pool of the hotel we were all in. The Thai day was heating up and Daw Khin Ni Ni Thein and I were planning to go sightseeing in Ayuthya.

“Look” Ni Ni said, cocking her chin at Eugene, “always so niftily dressed.”

Eugene was wearing a silk shirt, whose colors shifted between peacock blue and purple depending on the angle the light hit it, the angle one looked at it. “Shot silk,” I murmured. Almost all his fingers seemed to have rings on them. We smiled and waved at U Eugene and I wrapped some fruit in a paper napkin for our trip.

At the Burma Studies Conference in Gottenberg, Sweden in September of the same year,
Eugene, as activist and scholar, gave the keynote address. Some of the things he said that night still stick in my memory.

Conferences like that are more strenuous than most people think. For one thing there’s the months of preparation to do the research and say something meaningful about one’s chosen topic. Then usually the events are crammed in so close within a few days that, as even my younger colleagues sometimes say, one needs to train like for the marathon to go to one of these.

As a result I was pretty tired by the time the dinner was over, and the keynote address was at night. My limbs ached and my eyelids were ready to drop. But I woke up with a snap when U Eugene started to speak.

He briefly related his life story. His time with the political groups at Rangoon University, his time in the jungle with the SSA, exile in Chiangmai. Of his decision to migrate from Thailand to Canada he said:

“Khun Sa wanted me to be his Prince Norodom Sihanouk. Since King Sihanouk ‘rescued’ the Red Khmer, he reasoned that I would likewise be able to clear up his opium warlord image and provide him with a mantle of legitimacy and respect. I realized that there was no way I could keep on refusing his invitation. So I left Thailand in 1985 and thus landed in Vancouver as an immigrant.”

Eugene ticked off the flaws of Burma Studies as a discipline. As I feel he was right on the mark, I would like to quote at length on what he said. Also that meeting in Gottenberg was the very first time that the old “Burma watchers” a group of people that Zarni called Orientalists, had sat down with activists for the very first time. So Eugene’s remarks were very appropriate.

He said that activists were forced by circumstances to make decisions “up close.” And so they lack an overall view.

“Scholarship on politics is important to obtaining a more comprehensive understanding of politics, to understanding the structures of power and relational dynamics within a power system.”

The flaws of Burma Studies as a field are

1. the politics of national unity
2. the international relations perspective which sees “Burma” as a monolithic nation state.
3. seeing society as undifferentiated
4. one dimensional analysis.

“Burma Studies is particularly weak in integration of theories with issues and problems.

“Burma Studies seems to float in a theoretical vacuum. It is based on West-centric models.”

“--- explanations offered by academics of chronic performance failure of Ne Win’s socialist-military regime do not shed much light in this regard. Failure is nowhere attributed to the failure or incapacity (more likely) of the regime to govern properly – but attributed to bad planning, corruption, drought, flood etc. And currently the humanitarian crisis, which is on everyone’s lips, has not been explained. It has become a given, something that simply is, that happened all of a sudden --- the fact that the ruling regime or government is the problem does not even enter the equation.”

At that very same conference, Dr. Alice Khin Saw Win, a physician, stated that 1988 and the social, political and economic disruptions that followed had a direct role in the AIDS crisis.

Dr. Chao Tzang Yawngwe concluded that memorable speech two years ago by saying
“To know what one is dealing with holds the key to effective action.”

As we go on with our lives, our loss as dissidents and activists as nothing compared to the loss suffered by Daw Nu Nu Myint (Mrs. Chao Tzang Yawngwe) and her family. We should try to remember the humanitarian goals and the belief in freedom and democracy of someone like Eugene Yawngwe.

*

Copyright 2004 Kyi May Kaung

Sunday, May 13, 2007

Economist and Friend of Burma: Louis Wallinsky (1908-2001)

Photo -- Young and Old Magnolia Grandiflora -- copyright Kyi M. Kaung

By Kyi May Kaung – written in 2001


Louis Wallinsky, Chief Economic Advisor to the Government of the Union of Burma under the late U Nu between 1952 and 1958, one of U Nu's closest friends and longtime friend of Burma died on Christmas Eve at his home in Washington DC.

At the time of his death Louis was still active as an advisor on things to do with Burma, especially with regard to the Institute for Community and Institutional Development which brings Burmese students whose education has been disrupted to study at international universities. ICID was set up by prominant activist Dr. Zarni who also founded the well-known Free Burma Coalition.

Zarni was very close to Louis Wallinsky who served on the board of ICID from its founding until the time of his death. It was natural therefore that I should first hear that we had lost Louis through an email that he sent.

Even if I had not heard of Louis Wallinsky many years before I first met him, I would still have thought him remarkable. He was a tall, thin man, with silver grey hair falling down the back of his head almost to his shoulders. His hair contrasted favorably with his black coat and he usually wore a black beret, that made him look vaguely French and "left bankish." He used a walking stick and even though at some meetings he asked to be driven home around midday as the business-at-hand had been addressed, he was usually alert and would give his opinions in careful, well-considered, succinct words. He also tended to be very direct.

At that time he was 92 or 93. It seemed to me Lou used words and thoughts with great economy and effectiveness. Whether that was due to natural inclination, his early training as an economist or to age I never found out. I did find out though that he had been in Berlin when the Nazis came into power. He had also written a play called "Heil Hitler!" At a private interview in his home in 1999, I asked him whether he still wrote plays. He said he stopped as he had had no success.

I had first heard of Lou in Burma in the mid-sixties when his book Economic Development in Burma, 1951-60, New York, Twentieth Century Fund was published in 1962. At that time the story at the Institute of Economics in Rangoon, Burma was that Than Nyun, later Dr. Than Nyun, had had to re-orient his dissertation topic because he had initially been focused on economic planning in Burma but then Wallinsky's book, which was very comprehensive, had "beaten him to the punch." The conventional wisdom at the time was that whatever research was done on that period was bound to be eclipsed by Wallinsky's work as Louis had the advantage of being a hands on economic planner with access to statistical records and documents, as well as to the democratic leadership.

In the relatively few years that I knew him, I did not have the good fortune to be one of Wallinsky's close friends. As Zarni wrote recently in an informal obituary, "His house was a hospitable stop for many prominent Burmese expatriates and exiles, including U Kyaw Nyein, Bo Set Kyar, Wendy and Marjolaine Law Yone," and others.

I saw Lou usually at annual ICID board meetings and once when Zarni moved away to work in Chicago. The farewell at Marjolaine's house was on another cold December evening, in rooms decorated with poinsettia and red berries.

Zarni was inaugurating ICID brochures, which I learned had been printed with seed money donated by Lou. I remarked on the design of the pamphlets and asked who wrote it and Zarni replied, "Uncle Lou and I."

As we said our goodbyes and started to leave, Lou wrapped his navy blue scarf around his neck and said, "We're going to miss our Zarni aren't we." I thought there was a hint of wistfullness in his voice.

Maybe because of this remark I got the idea in my head that I should like to interview Lou and ask him about the Burma he had known and so I made an appointment.

One brisk winter morning, I walked from Ward Circle near American University about a mile to the building on Massachusetts Avenue where Lou lived. (Before Lou died whenever someone gave me a ride and we went around Ward Circle it was always on the tip of my tongue to tell whichever Burma activists were with me that Louis Wallinsky lived "near here," but I was always worried that Lou living alone, somehow the information might leak and someone might harm him. Now that Lou is beyond all pain and hurt it is safe to say "he lived alone at his home on Massachusetts Avenue.")

I walked past a church, a synagogue and a stand of scant leaved beech trees on my way to see Lou.

I called up from the reception desk. Lou answered the phone and came down to the lobby. He looked clean and tidily dressed in trousers and a red and white checked flannel shirt. He said he'd tell me about the time he and General Ne Win, "bumped heads with each other."

The apartment must have been a big one as it had bookshelves, paintings and normal sized furniture in it and seemed to wind backwards into other rooms beyond the immediately visible living-dining room and kitchenette. A big bank of windows on the wall opposite the door we entered by looked down on the part of the building built into the slope. The dark polished wood dining table had place mats, a couple of pots with blooming white narcissi in them and a complete set of chinaware all stacked up on it. Lou said the widow of a close friend of his had just brought the flowers. They looked like they had been lovingly forced indoors to bloom early, but there hadn't been enough light and so the flower stems were long, lank and pale, and now soft and bent over. The china looked like it must be the set Lou had before he lost Mrs. Wallinsky. It looked like it was all stacked up ready to use so Lou would not have to bother with reaching up to shelves or opening and closing cabinet doors.

A big framed pencil drawing of former Prime Minister U Nu hung on the wall on the left. Lou said his sister Anna Wallinska, who was an artist, had made it. The drawing, which was about 36 by 70 inches, and quite large for a pencil sketch, was a rather good likeness. In the portrait U Nu looked fresh and round-faced as he did in photographs of him from the fifties. Lou said his sister was a painter and had painted in many different styles. The two abstracts flanking the portrait were collages made after she "fell in love with Shan handmade paper. After a time though her fascination faded and she made other things." The collages looked very modern although they must have been made in the fifties or early sixties.

Lou asked if I would like a cup of tea. He boiled some water on the gas stove in a small sauce pan which had a few pieces of dried noodle in it. I asked how he managed and he said he "managed fine," there was a woman who came to do the cooking. I asked if he was writing his memoirs and he said no, he was putting his papers in order, "besides I look after myself, and it takes longer you know." He gestured cavalierly towards his books and confided, "I've forgotten everything I've read in those books," and laughed. I laughed too, envying him his vantage point of age, which allowed him to value the real things of life versus the stuff in books.

He sat down in the brown leather chair that he said was his favorite. I sat down on the sofa across from him, facing the window. He wanted to know why I wished to interview him. I said because I wanted to ask him about his impressions of Burma.

We talked first of the Pyidawtha Plans with which Lou Wallinsky, as a member of the firm of Knappen, Tibbets, Abbot and later McCarthy, had been intimately involved.
I asked if it was true as we had been taught in our economics class at Rangoon University that the Pyidawtha Plans had to be abandoned because the Korean War boom ended and the price of Burma's rice exports fell. Wallinsky said that was true but also the government was able to find other sources of foreign exchange and about 80 % of the projects were completed.

He talked about the Burma Pharmaceutical Industry, which he said was "U Nu's baby." He said that at first U Nu was not too happy with him, as an economic advisor he "was younger than the PM (U Nu)" "But he got used to me later," Lou said. I told Lou that at the time the Rangoon wags used to call BPI the "Burma packing industry" because everything was bought from overseas and then the pills were stamped in the factory in Rangoon; that it was such a pity but Myanmar was now becoming known for other kinds of pills; speed pills not vitamins. Lou said U Nu once gave an order that a piece of land be cleared of "junk" that was lying on it so that the land could be used for a project and was "mad when he drove by a few days later and the land had still not been cleared."

From this I gathered that attention to detail, in other words micro-management, was not unique to the present military rulers of Burma, though of course U Nu's administration was much more humane.

Lou said that U Nu had struck him as an extremely intelligent man. When I asked if he could reflect on the characteristics of the civilian leadership of democratic Burma in contrast to the present rulers, Lou replied that he really could not as he had no knowledge of the military. He said as economic planners for the U Nu administration, their firm had concentrated only on economic matters and had not advised on military matters at all.

A reliable source told me that KTA(M) had been kept on after what Wallinsky called "the first coup of 1958" (the Caretaker Government) and also after "the second coup of 1962." According to this source, Fritz Werner, notorious for connections to Ne Win and his regime, which are purported to continue on a warm footing to this day, was "advisor on military matters" in the early sixties at the same time Wallinsky was economic advisor.

This source said "Dr. Wallinsky and Dr. Werner" were known as the two foreigners advising the Revolutionary Council, though on completely different matters. They had separate briefs and no connection with each other.

In Burma as a student I had attended briefings by U Thet Tun of the CSED (the central statistical organization) in which U Thet Tun had told us an anecdote about going in a helicopter to see if there were enough bamboo forests as raw material for the paper factory. I had heard that a few years later all the bamboo bloomed and then died and there had been a pulp shortage. But Lou did not talk to me about the paper mill.

I asked Lou if it was true that U Ne Win was extremely charismatic. "He wasn't charismatic, only a few women found him so," Lou muttered. He continued thoughtfully, "Anybody with a certain level of power is bound to be charismatic, the question is whether it is true charisma or emanating from power." He then told me of the three occasions in which he had observed Ne Win at close quarters.

The first time was at a dinner party. General Ne Win came with his wife Kitty but was very quiet, Lou said. He appeared affable and courteous. Wallinsky said he thought Ne Win was unsure of himself and his social skills.

The second time he saw Gen. Ne Win was at the golf course. Lou said he used to go to play golf with another American who was a Fulbright professor and this time they went in his friend's car with his friend's driver at the wheel rather than in his car.

"The driver pulled up rather quietly in front of the building. There was a man standing there, bending down with his foot on the railing, tying his shoelaces. He was startled by the car pulling up silently behind him. I saw it was Ne Win. He was livid. He yanked open the front door, pulled out the Burmese driver, and started to punch him. My friend wanted to go to the driver's aid but I prevented him. I knew that when Ne Win came to play golf he had a full security contingent with him and anything could have happened."

Having in a way grown up on Rangoon stories about the general's violent temper; how he had hit a Chinese man on the golf course with a golf club because the man was obstructing his path; how he had pummeled a scholar who had imbibed too much at the annual research conference dinner for insulting Kitty and so on, I was not really surprised by what Lou told me. I was in fact expecting to hear something like that. I asked whether the attack was pretty vicious and if the victim had fallen to the ground.

Lou replied that by that time he and his friend had hastily gotten out of the car and the driver had not fallen to the ground because he was up against the car.

Lou also told me of the time that Gen. Ne Win kicked the butt (literally) of the foreign diplomat who was ahead of him in a reception line. I asked if Gen. Ne Win was Chief of Staff at that time and Lou said "No, he was head of state. It was after the coup."

I asked Lou why he thought Gen. Ne Win did things like that, and Lou said he thought it was because he was insecure and was afraid of things he did not understand, like foreigners.

Lou also told me about the time they went to a formal ball in connection with some charity or other. "Mrs. Gore Booth (the wife of the British Embassador) was there, and she was just a lovely lady. I stood in line to dance with her and so did Ne Win. Mrs. Gore Booth had a dance card on which all her dances were lined up. As she stood near us she dropped her card on the floor. I stooped down to retrieve her card for her and Ne Win bent down also. We bumped our heads against each other and from the impact, I gather he must have been quite stunned too." I couldn't help thinking that there was something metaphorical about Lou's recollections.

Of U Nu, Lou said how much he admired him and how intelligent U Nu was. He said, "He might not have been the best person to be Prime Minister, but he was certainly the best there was around. Certainly his colleagues and associates respected him enormously and deferred to him."

Of Wallinsky himself, Zarni wrote:

"Of Russian Jewish immigrant parents who later immigrated, Lou was born in London in 1908. His father was active in the US Labor Movement in New York, from whom Lou seemed to have picked up his strong social conscience. He studied economics at Cornell, City College of New York, The New School, and Berlin, served as consultant to the United States War Production Board, then became Financial Director of the World ORT Union where he supervised its chain of some 80 vocational training schools for Jewish displaced persons in the D.P. camps of Germany."

I asked Lou whether his Jewish background had made him more empathetic towards the plight of oppressed people like the Burmese. Lou said it certainly made him more sensitive to such issues.

Zarni continued:

"Lou's later work concentrated on problems of economic development, culminating in his Associateship with Robert Nathan, the capacity in which he led an economic advisory team to Burma for six years. As economic consultant he worked in 18 countries. In retirement he served as Director of a special International Commission of the World Jewish Congress studying issues facing world Jewry. In addition to professional publications which include "Economic Development in Burma" and "The Planning and Execution of Development," Lou (also) wrote a play. Lou had set up a scholarship/research trust fund at Cornell Economics Department and donated, to the Southeast Asia Collection at Cornell Library, his correspondence with prominent Burmese nationalist and ethnic leaders, as well as Burma papers.

"Lou had this trademark -- no nonsense social attitude, while being proper. He had his own personal shortcomings, as we all do, but he lived a very rich and full life. Three of the most memorable stories Lou shared with me include his experience seeing, with his wife Dorothy, a ghost going through their bedroom in the residence in Rangoon, his sitting on Emma Goldman's lap during an organizers' meeting at his parents' place in New York, and his having to walk backward after an audience with the Shah of Iran in Teheran!

"I will miss him deeply. Lou is survived by a son and two daughters. The memorial service for Lou is scheduled to be held in New York on March 23, 2002."

The last time I saw Lou was this summer. Another board meeting. That morning I just happened to pick the taxi driver from hell, who drove me in circles for 45 minutes until finally I recognized the house where the meeting was usually held. Late. The meeting was already in progress. New members, exciting new developments. Lou was sitting at the head of the table, his back to the windows. He was in shirt sleeves and as neat as ever.

Outside the trees had a young green color on them. The azaleas were ablaze and someone had brought in a big branch of pink frilly ones and stuck it in a vase on the sideboard. We had coffee and cheesecake.

I once wrote a poem in which all my favorite people, all my favorite things were all together in one room at the same time.

Among the people in this poem were Burmese democracy leader and Nobel Peace Prize Winner Daw Aung San Suu Kyi and her husband, the late Professor Michael Aris.

I realize now that must have been how I felt that morning.

In November FBC had a conference at American University. I decided to read some family oriented poems of loss on the last day. There were so many panels to attend, there was hardly time to talk to Zarni. He said he would sit by me at dinner. Even then, time has now grown very short. Zarni pulled some family pictures out of his wallet and slid them towards me. I took a look, and then nudged his arm and passed them back. He carefully tucked them in his billfold. The speeches had started.

After dinner he got up and said he had to go, he had to see Uncle Lou. Would I be reading the poem about the death of the father that I had translated. I said I would if I had time. Zarni had also lost his father in the previous year. I thought how many people there must be like that.

"Go, go," I said to Zarni, sounding like my grandmother, "it's much more important that you see Uncle Lou." I wondered how Lou was doing this winter. Zarni hurried off.

*

As our interview of 1999 drew to a close the winter light outside Lou's windows faded softly. The room inside seemed to have an inner light of its own. I got up and got ready to leave, thanking Lou and apologizing for taking his time, for perhaps tiring him. Asking too many questions. Lou smiled and protested, "I'm never tired by something like that, it invigorates me."

Louis Wallinsky, Rest in Peace.


Kyi May Kaung (Ph.D.) currently works for The Burma Fund as Sr. Research Associate. She is writing a book on Economic Transitions in a Democratic Burma for the Fund. The views expressed here are her own and do not reflect the views of The Burma Fund.


*

(Author’s Note: I wrote this in 2001. As I was not able to publish this obituary anywhere at the time of Louis Wallinsky’s death, despite repeated attempts, I am publishing it now on my Blog. I did the interview of Wallinsky described above under duress at “the workplace from hell.” The manager in charge then did not allow me to broadcast the interview – no reason given, but he implied that Wallinsky was “senile already,” something patently not true. I did the interview on my own time, on my day off.

After Louis’ death, two other Burmese broadcasters from 2 different radio stations asked me for sound bites of Louis’ voice, which only I had. I gave them to these 2 friends, who mentioned my interview on air.)

* All Words and Images on this Blog copyright Kyi May Kaung. All rights reserved, including in media not yet invented. This article may not be mirrored, copied, disseminated or reproduced.

Who is Krishna Andavolu?

https://www.cnn.com/profiles/krishna-andavolu#about