It is so very great a Pleasure
to meet you.
My name is
Narasuan.
In Thailand I am known
as the Black Prince, after my childhood name, Pra Ong Dam or Naret or Nares.
I am the Father of the
Thai nation—Thailand—as it is known today.
I was born in Phitsanulok
in Central Siam.
There’s a great modern
university named after me in Phitsanulok, which the Burmese cannot pronounce
and call “Peikthalauk.”
Curiously, my history
and the history of Thailand are not the main foci of Narasuan University.
We look forward, not
backward.
Instead, it is known
for its medical school and science departments, and has many schools, including
a graduate school and a school of social sciences and the humanities.[i]
The University was
renamed in 1990 on the 400th anniversary of my ascension to the
Ayuthia throne in 1590.
Point out to me any
known world-class university in Burma, named after any Burmese king.
If you are successful
you can chop off my head.
That alone should tell
you who was the winner in this historic rivalry, even though Ayuthia suffered
more invasions from the Burma side after my times and my Victory.
It was finally sacked
and destroyed by Hsinbyushin in 1765-67.
Hsinbyushin, whose name
meant “The Royal Owner of the White Elephants” hurriedly retreated to Ava as
Manchu Bannermen defeated his forces at Gothteik Gorge[ii]
near Lashio on the Burma-China border, and were close to the then capital of
Ava or Inwa, when Hsunbyushin arrived back home and managed to rally his forces
enough to drive back the Chinese.[iii] Previously, he thought the trouble with the
Machus was a border skirmish, so he thought he’d come to whack us in Ayuthia
hundreds of miles away to the Southeast of Ava.
Our people of Ayuthia
would probably have suffered more had he tarried in the environs of Ayuthia longer.
Fortunately, he had to
leave in a hurry, but by then Ayuthia was already torched and destroyed.
We Tai underwent a
period of torment and unrest, until General Pra Taksin set up a new capital
city near the sea, in Thonburi, on the opposite bank of the Chao Phra River
from what is now Bangkok.
For your comparison
purposes, in 1776 the American Revolution took place; Thomas Paine wrote Common Sense and Adam Smith, The Wealth of Nations[iv].
But all that’s another
story.
*
I am also the Patron Saint
of the Thai Army.
Kyi May Kaung, who is
co-writing this book, came to see Narasuan University and a Burmese professor
there in 2010 with a Phitsanulok native, Dr. Suri.
She came by my statue
in the main plaza on its shining white marble plinth, surrounded by rows of
green topiary bushes at waist height, clipped to resemble elephants.
In the still bright sun
of November, under a sky that Dr. Kaung
would call “Prussian Blue, with some water mixed in” and puffy white clouds, my
statue of dark bronze depicts me seated, looking down, pouring the Water of Allegiance
from a small bronze ewer onto the soil to signify my final break with Burma and
Hongsawadi.
By doing so, I called
the Earth to witness our Independence.
I was thirty years old.[v]
I was in Kreng or
Gyaing (in Burmese) on the Burma-Siam Border.
This was my first and
last clean break with Burma.
*
At age nine, I was
taken as a hostage prisoner-prince to Hangsawadi or Hanthawaddy[vi],
in Burma: The City of the Hongsa or
Hintha, the mandarin duck. Now it is a
secondary town or city in Burma, with nothing special about it except the small
statues of the two mandarin ducks on the top of a small hill, the highest point
there—the ancient reclining Buddha image—the Shwemawdaw Pagoda which was
already an old pagoda when I got there—and a portion of the pagoda which fell off during
the big earthquake of 1917[vii].
People go there now
mainly because it is only about forty miles north of Rangoon by motor car, and
can be done as a day trip. It’s
convenient for tourists, but even then unreachable in the days of the twenty
four hour visa immediately after General Ne Win’s coup in 1962.
Later, the one week
visa gave farang tourists a bit more
time.
It is hard to conceive
that in the mid-sixteenth century, Hongsawadi was a world capital and spoken of
glowingly even by a Venetian jeweler, Gaspero Balbi,[viii]who
happened to fetch up while I was there.[ix] He came in his stiff brocade topcoat and breeches
into the king’s audience hall, but the guards made him take off his tooled
leather shoes with their stacked wooden heels and pointed toes. During the time he lived there, he shed his
heavy layered clothing—doublets, breeches and vests, and furs, and got attuned
to silk and cotton top-shirts and jackets more suited to the tropical heat.
I often saw him
bustling about the palace, stroking his short dark beard and his bald head, carrying
gems and jewelry in his hidden pockets and in a small black velvet bag with a
worn thin pile with a drawstring top, that he always carried with him looped
around his left hand.
I suspected he sold
muskets and arquebuses and even cannon in secret to the Hongsawadi king.
When he wasn’t trading
and wheeling and dealing, Balbi sat on the stoop of one of the gilded, open
pavilions and told us children in the court of the wonders he encountered on
his way to Hanthawaddy.
One of them was the
Elephanta Caves in India with the Buddhist frescoes on the walls. The other was the frightening tidal bore at
the mouth of the Sittang River, which I was yet to encounter.
The only thing wrong
with sitting in the elegant teak pavilions of Hongsawadi, was that even with
all this gilt and gold, sometimes when the breeze was blowing towards you, you
could smell the cesspits and the stench stuck in your throat, especially in the
heat of March and in April, during the new year that we Tai call songkran and the Burmese call thingyan.
No wonder we need to
throw water on each other during this Water Festival to wash all the Dirt away.
In the twenty first
century, the Burmese military regime is trying to bring back the glamour of
dusty little Pegu (the common name of Hongsawadi) by reconstructing the palace,
Kabawzathadi, they call it, of my captor, the so-called Universal Monarch
Bayinnaung.
But it’s still a Fake
because they know nothing so far of what the old palace which was burned down
looked like. All they have left in their
chronicles is that it was built in 1553 south of the Shwemawdaw Pagoda, and had
seventy six rooms or pavilions.[x]
The original palace was
built two years before I was born in Phitsanulok.
I saw and knew what Kanbawzathadi Palace was like, having lived six long years
of my forcibly interrupted childhood there.
My memories of it are
for the most part not happy ones.
I was plagued
throughout by homesickness for Siam and my family—the taste and aromas of my
favorite Tai foods, and even the fresh taste of Phitsanulok water.
Worst was a certain
supercilious attitude projected towards me like poisonous arrows of “You are
the Conquered. You are Inferior ,” that
was constantly pushed down on me, especially by Bayinnaung’s son, the crown prince
Nanda and his son, Minkyi Swa.
The grandson’s name
meant “Great King Shrill” in Burmese.
It didn’t match for bombast
the name of a later king—Minkyee Swa Saw Kè, which meant Great King, Shrill and
Can Beat You Exceedingly, but I think it came close.
And if human beings begin
in time to match their names, Nanda and Minkyi Swa were living examples of that.
Even as a child hostage
and prisoner of war, or perhaps because of my lowly status there, I saw through
both of them.
I never liked them.
Like the cesspit smells
that I had to tolerate, in their presence I held my breath and tried not to
breathe.
*
Mine is a story of Love
and Hate towards Burma, my erstwhile country of forced adoption and imprisonment.
Come with me.
I will show you how it
feels to touch an elephant that you are training for war, to pick men up and
throw them to their deaths.
Come to the smelly elephant
kraal with me, to the court in Hongsawadi, to my home town of Phitsanulok and
to Ayuthia, the Venice of the East.
Have a taste of this
raw crocodile egg yolk dressed with hot chili sauce.[xi] A bit like a turtle’s egg, is it not? Grainy and feels as if it will bruise your
tongue. It’s there in that green-grey
celadon dish from Sawankhalok.
That is not a miniature
eggplant you are eating.
It’s a faux aubergine,
blown like glass from translucent rice paste, hand-painted with edible fruit
and vegetable juices and stuffed with brown bean paste made with cane and toddy
sugar, for your dessert.
Only the Tai royal
family may eat such sweets, but for me they are too cloying.
The Burmese still don’t
know how to make them.
During my Hongsawadi
years, my wet nurse Aunty Buffalo made them for me whenever I got dejected. Her specialities were little custard apples,
each with the blue grey white skins with a thousand bumps, and mangoes.
“Don’t let the Hpamaar princes
see them,” she always warned, “eat them quickly.”
But I carried them
around in my shirt pocket until they got sticky and ants came to eat them when
I took a nap, climbing up my arms.
Now that too might be
considered an auspicious sign.
I must remind Dr. Kyi
May[xii]
not to forget to write that in.
It wasn’t just the
great King Bayinnaung, my captor, my warden, my jailer, my “adoptive grandfather”
who was Maung Chatet—he on whom the white ants climbed—when he was young.
Ants also climbed on me—I
could call myself Maung Paywet Saik Tet.
I was never destined to
fight the old king on elephant-back, man to man.
But I would in time
trounce my two nemeses.
*
Here, meet my dear
younger brother Ekathatsarot of the pale skin—The White Prince –my dear elder
sister Suphankalya of the golden complexion, also known as The Golden Princess,[xiii]
whom Bayinnaung took to wife, not ahrnadè
nor embarrassed about his old age, when she was sixteen and he was sixty.
Meet my mother, the
daughter of a queen slain by the Burmese—my father who tried to make the best
of a bad situation and ended up derided and hated by both Tai and Burmese.
Come with me, my war
elephants are screaming.
They eat all the time
during their waking hours and they want their special treats of three hands-lengths
of maroon sugar cane and those little sandalwood bananas called nathapuu.
Come.
Look lively.
I don’t tolerate
laggards in my Camp.
*
Accessed
6-9-2012
[ii] As a teenager,
I enjoyed one trip to Gothteik and on to Lashio with my siblings and cousins
when I was about 15. My uncle was then
chief engineer at Burma railways and we went in his special coach, which was
quite rudimentary in its setup and arrangements. My young cousin dived between the bunks on
each side as the train crossed over the trestle spanning the Gorge. I was so afraid he would overshoot out of the
window and fall over into the about 200 foot deep Gorge. KMK
Accessed
6-9-2012
[iv] Events in 1776
simultaneous with Burma-Siam Wars.
Accessed
6-9-2012
[v] He may have
been either 29 or 30 – see later chapters for the controversy over Narasuan’s
birth date due to difficulties in converting the traditional Thai calendar to
the modern western one. For fictional
purposes and because it’s a nice round number, I chose thirty.
Called
Pegu by the English and now called Bago.
Accessed
6-9-2012
Accessed
6-9-2012
Gaspero
Balbi’s account of his trip to the court of Hanthawaddy, School of Oriental and
African Studies archive on line.
Accessed 6-9-2012.
[ix] Poetic license
on my part.
Accessed 6-9-2012. I don’t know how
accurate this is, but am presenting it as is.
Here is a verbatim quote:
“According to the record of a minister 'Letwe Bawrahta' the Kanbawzathadi Palace, Bago had a total of 76 apartments and halls.
“The Kanbawzathadi Palace in Bago was found after excavation works that started on 25th April 1990. The excavation found six mounds that revealed the brick foundations and plinths of the palace. There were some teak pillars that have inscriptions on them, were also found in the excavated structures. Some of the structures were rebuilt including the Lion Throne Room and the Bee Throne Room and the Settaw Saung, which is one of the main rooms of the palace,. Work on the Settaw Saung has almost been completed. The main audience hall (the Lion Throne Room) is being rebuilt. A total of 9662 acres of land area has been transferred to the Archaeological Department.
The Kanbawzathadi Palace, Bago was restored completely in mid 2003. The restoration works done included greening and beautifying of the palace area, arranging the statues, statues and paintings, preparations for displaying the Mingala coach drawn by 16 horses at the time of King Bayinnaung's time. When the reconstruction work of the 16th century palace is completed, it will become a major tourist attraction in Bago.”
See also http://www.myanmar-image.com/bago/kanbawza/
For inaccurate and gaudy “restoration” – these web sites say nothing of what happened to the archaeological material found.
“According to the record of a minister 'Letwe Bawrahta' the Kanbawzathadi Palace, Bago had a total of 76 apartments and halls.
“The Kanbawzathadi Palace in Bago was found after excavation works that started on 25th April 1990. The excavation found six mounds that revealed the brick foundations and plinths of the palace. There were some teak pillars that have inscriptions on them, were also found in the excavated structures. Some of the structures were rebuilt including the Lion Throne Room and the Bee Throne Room and the Settaw Saung, which is one of the main rooms of the palace,. Work on the Settaw Saung has almost been completed. The main audience hall (the Lion Throne Room) is being rebuilt. A total of 9662 acres of land area has been transferred to the Archaeological Department.
The Kanbawzathadi Palace, Bago was restored completely in mid 2003. The restoration works done included greening and beautifying of the palace area, arranging the statues, statues and paintings, preparations for displaying the Mingala coach drawn by 16 horses at the time of King Bayinnaung's time. When the reconstruction work of the 16th century palace is completed, it will become a major tourist attraction in Bago.”
See also http://www.myanmar-image.com/bago/kanbawza/
For inaccurate and gaudy “restoration” – these web sites say nothing of what happened to the archaeological material found.
[xi] I first
encountered this in a novel about Constantine Phaulkon by Axel Aylwen, The
Falcon of Siam, The Falcon Press, Thailand, 2004, and have come to love this
snack.
[xii] Thai before
King Chulalongkorn’s time had only first names.
[xiii] Portuguese
visitors to Ayuthia first wrote about the siblings’ skin colors and their
nicknames.